Please keep in mind that any plumbing issue could have a multitude of possibilities. These are some simple options to consider.

• Why do we run out of hot water?
• How can I shut off the water in my house?
• What could be causing an occasional sewer odor smell in my home?
• If my main sewer line stops up, where do you run your sewer cable from in order to clear the blockage?
• What is a reasonable way to improve my water pressure to my house so that when I shower and someone else flushes a toilet, I don't experience such a loss of water flow?
• How do I know if I need a complete hot and cold home repipe?
• How much and how long do repipes generally take?
• I've heard complaints about these so called water saver toilets, is there a particular brand that you suggest?
• Do you install safety grab bars in homes for the tub and shower area as well as in the toilet area?
• Is any brand of faucet ok to purchase?
• Is it safe to use the toilet tank gel tabs or chlorine tablets?
• Why does my haunted toilet turn itself back on even when I haven't used it?
• How do I know if I have an actual water pressure leak due to high water bills?
• My house is 40 plus years old and my sewer stops up every year or so.  Should I replace the line?
• How involved would it be to replace my tank type water heater with a tankless style that I've heard so much about?
• How would I know if I have a water pipe leak in the wall versus underneath my concrete slab floor?

1. Why do we run out of hot water?
   One reason could be that the bottom element has burned out which can be replaced or there could be a possible hot water pipe leak allowing the hot water to escape.
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2. How can I shut off the water in my house?
   By code there should be a shut off valve located under ground below a hose faucet which usually is in the most direct line from the water meter, usually a foot or so deep. Another option to shut off your water would be at the water meter itself, but certain municipalities have an issue with customers using them.  We highly recommend having an accessible brass gate valve available at the house connection to be able to shut off for emergencies or when going out of town for an extended amount of time.
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3. What could be causing an occasional sewer odor smell in my home?
   You may have a worn out wax seal under your toilet or a plumbing fixture or drain that has had the water evaporate from the p-trap.
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4. If my main sewer line stops up, where do you run your sewer cable from in order to clear the blockage?
   The best option is outside through what we refer to as a clean out tee fitting which is usually buried under ground a few feet from where the sewer pipe exits the home.  This could be in the front, side, or rear portion of the house or building.  We highly recommend for any home or business to know where this is located or to have a C.O. tee installed with a removable plug at ground level.
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5. What is a reasonable way to improve my water pressure to my house so that when I shower and someone else flushes a toilet, I don't experience such a loss of water flow?
   There are several options but one is to replace the water service supply line from the water meter to the house.  This usually greatly improves what we call the head pressure to the home.
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6. How do I know if I need a complete hot and cold home repipe?
   We always ask the homeowner if they have had a history of leaks and if their answer is yes, then we offer a free repipe estimate which is the best solution to eliminate repeat leaks.
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7. How much and how long do repipes generally take?
   Depending on the quantity of plumbing fixtures, the attic accessibility and so on, the job total can run between $3000.00 to $5000.00 on the average and they can take two to four plumbers (2.5 to 4) working days to complete the project which requires a permit and inspection that we arrange.
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8. I've heard complaints about these so called water saver toilets, is there a particular brand that you suggest?
   Yes, there are several brands that are good. Based on our experiements and opinion, we recommend the American Standard (Cadet 3). Any major name brand would be a good alternative such as Kohler or Gerber.  You could also consider a Comfort Height Style seeing that none of us are getting any younger.  There is also water saver rebate programs that are good incentives if you have one of the older 3.5 gallon flush toilets.
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9. Do you install safety grab bars in homes for the tub and shower area as well as in the toilet area?
   We highly recommend grab bars for anybody that may be in need of these. It is always better to be pro-active to install these where needed before an actual fall or accident takes place. These can be worth their weight in gold. The key installation issues are that they are correctly secured and in the proper location based on a person's needs.
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10. Is any brand of faucet ok to purchase?
    We caution people to stick with the major brands. We can provide any one of these for customers, but if you choose to buy your own always save your receipt. Styles and replacement parts change so often, so being able to identify and obtain parts in the future is an important matter. Delta and Moen are safe suggestions.
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11. Is it safe to use the toilet tank gel tabs or chlorine tablets?
    From our experience we have dealt with cases in which the gel breaks down and can collect in the neck or rim of the toilet bowl over time and slows down the vortex flow in the older 3.5 gallon toilets. This can easily be corrected and as for the chlorine tablets, we've seen cases where they prematurely break down the rubber of the tank flapper which shortens the flappers life.  Other than that, they seem to be fine to use.
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12. Why does my haunted toilet turn itself back on even when I haven't used it?
    This is usally attributed to the toilet tank flapper or tank ball that wears down and is no longer holding the water level in the tank. Sometimes it is necessary to replace the flush valve assembly itself.
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13. How do I know if I have an actual water pressure leak due to high water bills?
    If you are on city or county water, you can go to the water meter and look for a triangular shaped indicator dial located under the glass face of the meter itself to see if it is spinning.  Make sure nothing in the house is being used at the time.  Note: Any water pressure leaks not only affect your water bill charge; but if you are not on a septic tank, this also affects your sewer charges.
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14. My house is 40 plus years old and my sewer stops up every year or so.  Should I replace the line?
    At the time your home was built a tar paper type of pipe material used was commonly known as orangeburg from where the cast iron pipe stubbed out of the home to the city, county or septic tank connection.  Over time the layers of material would separate and breakdown and any nearby tree roots would infiltrate the line and sometimes even compress entire sections of pipe. We can usually clear the immediate root buildup but with time they will simply grow back. Replacement which requires a permit is the ultimate best solution to remedy the problem.  We also have a sewer video camera that we can feed through the sewer line to verify its condition.
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15. How involved would it be to replace my tank type water heater with a tankless style that I've heard so much about?
    There are certain things that must be looked at first, like whether or not you have natural or lp gas, or just electric. Do you have adequate amperage available in your existing electrical panel box. Usually it is not, so a licensed electrician would need to come out and evaluate the options.
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16. How would I know if I have a water pipe leak in the wall versus underneath my concrete slab floor?
    Usually when a water leak develops within an interior or exterior wall, the water shows up relatively soon. It can be obvious to track down the source which can be miniscule at first; however, a leak under the concrete floor will normally be accompanied by the sound of water traveling through the entire water systen as though you had an outside hose faucet partially open. Sometimes the quietness at night is when it's more noticeable. It could take days or weeks before it surfaces up through the 4" thick concrete floor.
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